Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a current darling of the skincare industry. It is essential for collagen production, helps neutralize free radicals from sun and pollution and can fade dark spots and discoloration. Plus it can help maintain skin firmness and brightness. So, what’s not to love? Nothing, but it’s tricky.
Vitamin C isn’t just one thing. There are multiple forms, and each behaves differently on your skin. If you know what type is likely to work best on your skin, you’re less likely to spend ridiculous amounts of money on a product that may be totally wrong for you.
Here are the different forms of vitamin C and their individual superpowers:
Ascorbic acid (also known as L-ascorbic acid). This is the super model of the vitamin C products. It can deliver impressive results but it’s finicky and breaks down quickly when exposed to light, heat or air, and it can irritate sensitive skin. It lives in water-based serums stored in dark, air-tight bottles, but if it’s not offered in a concentration range from 10 to 20%, it’s not worth the dough.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate. This is the boy-next-door version. It’s more stable than ascorbic acid and better suited for sensitive or acne-prone skin. It still offers antioxidant benefits and helps brighten, but it tends to be gentler and less likely to cause redness or breakouts. Great for younger skin.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. If you have sensitive skin, this form may be enough for you. It can sooth redness and provide moisture while gently brightening. Like going to prom with your cousin; it’s nice, but may not be as impactful as you’d hoped.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. This is the one you marry—especially if you’re a desert dweller of a certain age. It’s not irritating and penetrates the skin more deeply than its cousins while remaining stable for longer periods. It lives in oil and in great formulas it’s used at 10%. You may find it combined with other nourishing ingredients like coenzyme Q10 for added anti-aging benefits.
True or False?
“If it tingles, it’s working.” False. Tingling can indicate irritation, not effectiveness. A well-formulated vitamin C product should absorb smoothly without discomfort.
“Higher percentages are always better.” Not true. More isn’t always more. Over 20%, L-ascorbic acid can actually cause inflammation.
“You can’t use vitamin C with retinol.” Old myth. While layering vitamin C and retinoids in the same routine may cause irritation, newer, stable derivatives like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can be paired with retinoids—especially when staggered (vitamin C in the morning, retinoid at night).
“You get what you pay for.” Not anymore. It’s true that vitamin C is an expensive ingredient, but it’s a flat out lie that you need to spend in the three digits to achieve top-notch results.
Helpful tips
Apply it in the morning. That’s when your skin faces the most environmental stress; vitamin C helps shield against it.
Pair with sunscreen. The antioxidant boost enhances your sun protection.
Be patient. You might notice a brighter glow in a few weeks, but long-term benefits like firmer skin and fading discoloration usually take eight to 12 weeks of consistent use.
The bottom line: only you know you. Try a sample or a mini-size before making a mistake and let your skin tell you all you need to know. Take the time to explore lesser-known brands, read the labels, respect your wallet and trust your own knowledge rather than the hype.
Brook Dougherty of Indio is the founder of JustUs Skincare and welcomes your questions. She can be reached at (310) 266.7171 or [email protected]. For more information, visit www.justusskincare.com.
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