This year, Tommy and I had the opportunity to return to Italy. With a desire to slow down and indulge in the best regional cuisine, we decided to skip the cities and head to the countryside. A friend recommended Le Mandrie Di San Paolo, an agritourism farm outside of Assisi, where everything served is made on property, and I couldn’t think of anything better! So, we headed to the Umbria region where the small hill town was located.
Umbria is known as Italy’s “cuore verde” (green heart) for its agriculture and landscape, which was enticing for me as a gluten-free (GF) vegetarian. The region also produces succulent gold-green olive oil, rich red wines, a variety of sheep’s milk cheeses and many diverse grains. Heaven!
From previous research, I knew we’d find plenty of GF options. Few are aware that celiac disease is an epidemic in Italy and citizens diagnosed (over the age of 10) receive a monthly stipend of 140 euros to purchase GF foods.1 As such, restaurants there offer far greater variety of GF options than in the United States.
However, many have asked me if the wheat in Italy is “better” and OK to eat if you are gluten-sensitive. The short answer is: some of it. It seems to come down to two things: the type of grains used and agricultural regulations. In the United States, 60 percent of the wheat produced is red wheat which is soft and fluffy and has a longer shelf life. It also contains more proteins, including gluten, which makes bread doughy.2 Italians use a variety of flours, but those made from wheat still contain gluten, so you have to ask about the type of flour used. Those with celiac should certainly stick to those certified as GF.
I asked the proprietors at Le Mandrie if any of their beautiful breads were made without wheat and was introduced to one containing six different GF grains, including garbanzo bean and buckwheat. The family makes it themselves and is proud to tell you everything about it. It was perfect and WOW did it taste incredible with their orchid-grown olive oils. I tried their other homemade breads, only in moderation as they made me feel fuller. They also make a GF tagliatelle (flat noodle pasta) which was so good I had it every other night.
Besides the type of grains, wheat sensitivity may also have to do with the way grains are commercially processed. In the United States, the herbicide glyphosate is sprayed on genetically modified crops3 and while the FDA states the chemical is not harmful to humans, it is harmful to bacteria. This is bad news for our gut microbiome which is made up of a lot of bacteria. Some countries including Germany and France have banned the use of glyphosate, and a European Union (EU) ban is set to begin in 2033. Meanwhile, Italy’s restrictions on the chemical are among the most significant in the world.4 Many regions in Italy pride themselves on preserving and using traditional farming methods. Strict labeling systems such as “DOP,” which translates to “Protected Designation of Origin,” certify that food products are produced, processed and packaged in a specific region using only traditional methods and ingredients.
I was most impressed to learn that if a product contains any of the 14 main allergens — from gluten and eggs to mustard and sulfites — as an ingredient or processing aid, the EU requires that information be included on the label or menu.5
The Italian countryside was everything we hoped: relaxing, welcoming, beautiful and bountiful. If you have the opportunity to visit and you’re looking for conscious cuisine made the way mama used to make it, skip the big cities and head to the countryside.
Lauren Del Sarto is founder and publisher of Desert Health and can be reached at [email protected].
References: 1) https://deserthealthnews.com/story/gluten-free-globally/; 2) https://www.goodrx.com/well-being/diet-nutrition/gluten-europe-vs-united-states; 3) https://www.nbcnews.com/data-graphics/toxic-herbicides-map-showing-high-use-state-rcna50052; 4) https://www.pan-europe.info/press-releases/2016/08/italy-places-important-restrictions-use-glyphosate#; 5) https://www.food.gov.uk/business-guidance/allergen-guidance-for-food-businesses
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